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and a Huge thank you Nick Harding at Sports Scene for the great review.....
‘Living the Best Day Ever’, Hendri Coetzee – memoirs of the Nile source-to-sea expedition
Nick Harding | @HardingNicolaas -
Sportscene
was given exclusive access to the pre-published draft of Hendri
Coetzee's autobiography; the South African was one of the most-respected
explorers and paddlers in African history who navigated, by raft, the
source of the Nile to its sea-mouth, Coetzee was sadly presumed dead in
2010 following an attack on his kayak by a crocodile.
Plot
Hendri Coetzee relives his wayward ways as a youth prior to military
service as well as his drunken days that lead him and fellow rafter /
best friend Pete to undertake a voyage of epic proportions paddling
approximately 6700km from the Nile Basin in Lake Victoria to its
Mediterranean-mouth at Rosetta through 3 politically-heated countries at
the time (Uganda, Sudan, Eqypt). Weaving his life-tapestry Coetzee,
also an exceptional kayaker, makes reference to his descents on the
Zambezi River, the Congo and his first ascents on the last expedition of
the Great Lakes, Central Africa.
“I would never live a better day.”
Review
Sitting outside a café in a traditional Swiss square I find myself
fully-absorbed, addicted and several hours later, many coffees down
wanting to finish the book in a day – this rarely happens!
If you enjoyed watching Steve Fisher's film Congo:
The Grand Inga Project (2010) or really got into
Claire O'Hara's article
about her Ugandan trip earlier this year, then you'll really get your
teeth into this soon-to-be released book written by ex-military turned
raft-guide Hendri Coetzee himself and then, following his death, edited
by Kara Blackmore.
Originally thinking this story would be merely a macho testicle-driven
account of an incredible and near-unrepeatable river descent, of which
part of it is because Coetzee is one tough cookie with a relentless
hunger to party, it far exceeded all expectations – his writing is
beautiful scratching deep below the surface of many controversial issues
affecting life in Africa as well as the banality of everyday life using
dark humour and some unbelievable comparisons:
“Rafting on this section is like being lost without a map while driving
in a foreign city at rush hour. Scattered islands mean we have to
change intersections a few times to find the right turnoff, taking great
care to give the hippopotamus traffic as much space as possible.”
It doesn't matter whether you are a die-hard paddler or a casual one,
you will be just as captivated by Coetzee's description of the river
features and scares he encountered during his expeditions; get ready for
speechlessness and a lump in your throat (this one was taken from his
extract kayaking the Congo):
Waterfalls sixty meters high, drift serenely alongside frenzied rapids
that burst through patches of green vegetation. Eventually, tired and
complacent, I make a mistake. The penalty is a few moments of dread as I
paddle uphill from a section that might just kill me. It is a nice
reminder. I should focus. I should know better than to give in to an
inclination to rush.
Like any excursion-travelogue you want to follow the trip from
beginning to end because of passing time, in this case I was drawn to:
one; the Nile-trip was an unusually long-winded raft adventure and two;
his personal complexes from his youth remained through his later adult
years.
Part of the book's charm is that it's littered with reoccurring themes,
many a professional athlete can identify with them: drinking as the
ultimate goal to celebrate successfully nailing a hard-river section,
drinking as dystopian escapism, chasing something (women, an adrenaline
rush, a dream unshared by others), conquering and fearing death, losing
and gaining faith, as he puts it sub-culture 'freaks' attracting
'freaks' and those who are all about 'the image' not the sport, the
difficulty of getting sponsorship (especially when Pete is involved),
macho-ism amongst your mates and what makes a 'real' man, physical
strength as a benefit and lack of it a potential death-risk, wanting and
getting fame, power, the deadly-rewarding sides of nature and post-high
syndrome to name a few.
His writing isn't just for athletes though, anyone can really identify
with what he says about having your leadership undermined because you
are young or as others are close-minded, how to function in the real
world, the randomness of reality, the outrageousness of daily life, not
trusting people, managing your anger, doing something full-throttle, the
attraction of illegality with after-drug paranoia, plus creating your
own destiny.
Coetzee essentially writes about two worlds colliding whether it be
being a white South African in a black world, paddling-existence fusing
to become normal life and how to survive a world without structure; what
do you do when you leave the military? what do you do when do complete
your expedition?
He is a wizard at comparing these worlds with nature and his writing is
satirically very funny too! He manages to balance the seriousness of
his real-life experiences of impoverished and war-torn Africa with the
strangeness of his own life; comedy and swearing aplenty!
Pete will end up buying everyone drinks and spending all our money,
while using his on-board freak magnet to attract and befriend the
weirdest characters in a hundred-mile radius. He will no doubt send us
into worlds so strange that we will look like the normal ones!
However, beware there are parts of his life-story that are graphic
because he ultimately writes openly reciting the horrors he has seen.
I hadn't seen the accompanying images of his raft-journey with Pete
before I finished this section, yet I didn't need to – so visual and
accurate his writing was that I was sitting there with brown shorts on
the “action raft”, as he called it, or feeling like I was grimacing too
when 'suicide' tequila shots were being downed!
I won't give away any spoilers but do read on.
Verdict
A certainly worthwhile brilliantly-written read, time it well when to
go onto the more solemn and graphic sections though. You won't be
disappointed by its realistic buttock-clenching action and the humanism
behind Coetzee's rendition of his expedition.
The autobiography, once published, is a eulogy, a hommage to the life
and soul of an incredible adventurer who loved his continent, a man who
loved the freedom paddling gave him, a man who lived for each day and
celebrated his existence hard, a man who pursued and lived his dreams.